How to: Fishing for Catfish with Artificial Lures
The US is home to many sportfish and when everything seems to be a popularity contest, bass fishing usually takes the top spot and catfish come in under. Some fishermen are stuck in their ways only targeting one particular species while others, such as myself, target multiple species. More often than not, those species specific fishermen also only stick to traditional methods of what is typically used to catch said species. In this article, we're going to explore how to catch catfish the unconventional way.
When you think of fishing for catfish, what usually comes to mind? Cut or live bait, clickers, and still fishing. And who can forget chicken liver and strawberry chicken. While all of these have their place and certainly work, we're going to throw all of that out and explore the wonderful world of targeting catfish with artificial lures. Yes, no scent, no mess, and no sitting around watching your rod tip. I might add that using artificial lures consistently catches more fish vs the standard methods. I'm going to share much of what I've learned over the past decade of doing this and hopefully convince some of you to consider this alternative method of finding these beloved whiskered fish.
Channel Catfish vs Blue Catfish vs Flathead Catfish. What's the difference?
Before we dive in, allow me to introduce the big 3 of the catfish world and go over the main differences and proper identification.
Channel Catfish
Abundant across the country, these sleek, gray fish are commonly found in all types of water from fast moving streams to stagnant farm ponds. They can provide a good bite especially when you find a school of them. If you're into eating catfish, these are going to be your best bet.
Channels are usually easily identifiable by their forked tail and elongated bodies, with gray sides, however, they can also take on a golden tint, brown, or even black. Their anal fin bows outward and has 24 to 29 rays.
Blue Catfish
The all around heavyweight champion, the blue catfish, can exceed 140lbs. These behemoths typically prefer more slack water in the rivers where the current is gentler or in reservoirs. I have only caught one, and what a beast it was.
Oftentimes blues and channels are confused for one another as they do have similarities. Typically blue catfish have more of a blueish gray coloring, but the easiest identifier is their anal fin is flat unlike the channel which is bowed outward. This fin also has more rays at 30-36. The mighty blues also have a forked tail.
Flathead Catfish
These might be the ugliest of the bunch, but they are hands down my favorite to catch. Also having the ability to grow to enormous sizes well exceeding 100lbs, these brutes can be found anywhere from the fastest current in the river to the dead water in the back of a forgotten lake.
Identification is pretty straight forward. Usually brown in color similar to a log, they can also be more orange or even black. Their heads are flat and so are their tails.
Why Use Lures?
There can be many correct ways of doing things and just because something is typically accomplished in a particular manner, doesn't mean there aren't other ways to do it. Sometimes these alternatives yield considerably better results. In my experience, that is the case with trading cut or live bait for a chunk of plastic. Once you learn where the actively feeding fish gather, you can cover a lot more water casting lures and this is going to result in more fish. You'll soon learn that tight lining for cats can waste more time than dragging your bait through any spot they like to congregate.
While I do target channels at times, the majority of my hunts are for flatheads. These have become the most predictable at certain times of year and once you dial in the location and various methods, artificials blow anything else out by a long shot. On several occasions I've encountered fishermen who had been out for hours tightlining with live or cut bait with nothing to show for it. I've then used my tried and true plastics and caught up to 5 or 6 flatheads within 1 1/2 to 2hrs. Knowing where to cast is half the battle and what I'm covering next.
Where Are The Catfish?
I'm going to talk about both channels and flatheads here. To preface, pretty much all of my fishing is done in southern Ohio and Indiana and my preference is with moving water. Creeks and rivers are where I gravitate although I will hit a pond or lake on occasion. In terms of this read, unless otherwise noted, I'm talking about fishing in a river or creek. Things may be slightly different in other parts of the country, but you should be able to gather information in this article and tweak it for your particular area.
Channel Catfish
Contrary to popular belief, actively feeding catfish in general will not be found in dead water. I've seen countless fishermen target these areas only to come up either empty handed or with lots of turtles. If you're tightlining and getting into turtles, move. You're not where the fish are. A hungry fish is going to swim over to the conveyor belt, aka current, and wait for a meal to swim by. Stagnant water is not in a hungry fish's top 10 places to find prey. So whatever you do, avoid those dead spots altogether. Instead, shoot for medium to fast current. When it comes to channels, I've found 3 spots tend to hold them more than others.
1. Behind islands.
2. Along swift, shallower water with a rocky bottom. Sometimes behind a rock pile.
3. Within rocky channels.
There are other spots, but these 3 tend to get more action. Where will you find these areas? Below lowhead dams and either above or below riffles are most common. If you know of any islands where the water is swift and not overly deep, they do like to hang out here too.
Flathead Catfish
When it comes to flatheads, current is certainly king and these fish are time of day dependent on where you will likely find them. If fishing for them during the day, the best 3 spots are going to be:
1. Below lowhead dams.
2. In and around large rocks and boulders.
3. Logjams.
If you are fishing for them at night, I find that long, flat rocky areas with plenty of current is your best bet. Typically they use these areas as highways to go to and from their lairs to the hunting grounds. In my experience, I have done much better with the early morning bite vs the evening bite this way.
The absolute best location for hungry flatheads during the day will be in the fastest, whitest water you can find. The boil of a lowhead dam and the whitewater of a strong riffle are two of the absolute best spots. If you see nothing but whitewater, foam, and bubbles, that's exactly where you'll spend some time around.
What Lures Work Best?
In general both channels and flatties are going to bite on the same lures, but the presentation is often different between the two which I'll put together in the next section. When it comes to selecting, don't overthink it. These have been the most effective for me:
1. Soft plastics. Both curly tails and swimbaits .
2. Crankbaits
3. Rattletrap*
4. Spoons
The most simplistic lure, the curly tail, is my secret weapon on the catfish front. Don't overthink it. KISS or "keep it simple, stupid" is what this lure is all about. I have caught more huge fish across the species board with a standard 3 inch Yum grub than anything else. My 3 largest catfish are no exception. Yes, 40+ inch catfish will still crush these "snacks". Various swimbaits will also entice plenty of cats.
My true opinion is single hooks do a much better job than a treble hook and is especially so when fish engulf the entire thing. This is why I put an asterisk by the rattletrap. The truth is, the rattletrap can be extremely effective at securing a strike, but the fish would often pop free during the fight. I have one rattletrap in particular that got incredibly beat up over an insane late summer flathead bite, but every single fish popped free and I lost some really solid fish because of it. I had considered swapping the trebles for single hooks, but ended up giving up on the lure altogether out of frustration. I'd love to hear success stories from people who have cracked the code!
While the rattletrap has given me issues, crankbaits rarely do and I believe this is because they usually don't swallow the entire thing. You don't need anything fancy here either. In creeks and rivers, I'm usually throwing a shallow minnow style bait in the 3 to 4 inch range. I personally don't fish in areas with really deep water that would require a long bill, but if you are fishing a lake and need to get down to the bottom, a deep diver might be a good choice if the bottom is mostly free of snags.
I don't use them often, but the spoon has proven itself to be a solid option in the very late summer for channel catfish. It's good to run these through open water pockets around deeper water and if you find one channel, there are usually more to be found in the same spot.
It's All About The Presentation
The finer details are what separates success vs hit and miss or even nothing at all. You will have to fine tune your presentation skills for the specific body of water you're fishing at the time while also taking into account the time of day and conditions. I've learned over the years that just because something works well in one waterway doesn't mean it will be the same 20 miles away in a totally different system. Even if hitting them on the same day. It's because of this I recommend logging what works, what you did, when you did it, and how you did it. You can then apply your successes to future trips and if you do this on different bodies of water, you'll always have confidence you can find fish no matter where you choose in your local area. This may take some time so don't expect it to be an instant process.
Alright, now the fun part. How do I use an artificial lure to attract catfish? I'm going to break it down by the 4 lure types from above.
1. Soft Plastics
The #1 flattie killer is hands down a 3 or 4 inch curly tail or swimbait, but just because you tie one on doesn't mean you'll be hooking up with the big one on your first cast. To produce more strikes, you'll need to get snaggy with it. In other words, make a lot of contact with the bottom. If you are fishing a new area and not snagging up often, you aren't doing it correctly. Once you know an area well enough to navigate the nasty snags, it becomes more fun as you aren't throwing money into the river every other cast, but there is a price for admission. This one key portion to unlocking the "secret" is what has scared 95% of people away who want to try it only to find out they lose a lot of tackle. Sometimes people see me out fishing the more public spots and want to try what I'm doing so I explain it all to them. Shortly after attempting, they go back to tightlining as they don't want to snag up anymore. If you are willing to lock in the art of this skill, it will provide huge success not only with catfish, but many other species as well.
Start by analyzing the flow rate and depth and then determine what jighead weight is best. 1/8oz or 1/4oz are the 2 almost always used. You want enough lead to allow it to sink, but also light enough to "float" with the current and gently bounce off the bottom or structure. Once dialed in, let it bounce. Throw it into the heavy current, allow it to flow along until you feel the first tick, then pull the rod upward to allow the bait to jump up, and then feel it float along until the next contact is made. Repeat. A flathead will generally do one of two things. It'll either gulp it in with little notice so you think you're snagged at first, or it'll produce a bone jarring strike and take off for deeper water.
If you're fishing a lowhead dam, center the bulk of your attention between the whitewater and about 8-10 feet behind it where the water begins to clear again. If you're within a riffle, again, focus on the harshest looking water and even better if there is structure. Logjams present a unique set of challenges and increase the difficulty level substantially. Your lure must hug the timber with a tight line as the current brings it across the structure. If you solicit a bite, the fish will commonly go back in the mess of sticks. I usually recommend sticking with larger and wider jams to lessen the potential for tangle ups in the twigs.
A slow retrieve also works if you can keep it fairly tight to the bottom. While this is usually better suited for channels, both my largest flathead and largest catfish to date, a 43 inch blue, were enticed from slowly swimming it back to me.
The best times of year for these lures and techniques are both the spring bite and the post spawn into later summer. While the night bite occasionally happens, the daytime bite is where it typically has been for me.
2. Crankbaits
These hardbaits have their place in my repertoire and it's loads of fun calling fish in this way. There are 2 occasions I will typically throw a crankbait. The first would be along long, rocky flats after sunset or before sunrise. My success rates are certainly better in the predawn hours vs the evening, but you can find fish during either time period. I believe they swim these zones between their resting spot and hunting grounds. You can either cast from the bank or wade out. Either way, a slow retrieve with the occasional pause or bottom bump will make them interested. My very first flathead came this way and is what started my journey to fishing for catfish with lures. I had a theory and got lucky on my first time trying which then led me to keep experimenting.
The other crankbait season is deep in the fall. The bite drastically falls off and the fish are looking for larger meals so ideally upgrading the lure profile is beneficial. Once again, a slow retrieve with occasional pauses or bottom hits will get the job done. The flatheads tend to move away from the fastest current areas by now so slow to medium current pools and eddies are good targets. My latest season flattie came this way. A 36 incher caught on October 30th.
3. Rattletraps
I only truly used these one season due to issues with fish staying on, but it worked so well in forcing strikes, it must make the list. This was a pre-fall lure and casting out under both lowheads and below deeper riffle pools, and doing a yo-yo technique had unmatched success in locating fish. I was getting multiple strikes and hookups every outing. How do I know these were flatties? Because many of them popped off right in front of me...
4. Spoons
And finally the simplistic chunk of metal with a hook on one end, the spoon. On the right day during very late summer or beginning of fall, spoons can be quite successful in locating open water channels. I like to drag these through pools, eddies, and along dropoffs where catfish may be hanging out. Anything from a standard retrieve to adding erratic movements will work.
Does Color Matter?
In the world of catfish, it seems that color only helps slightly compared to say a saugeye or walleye where lure choice is a very prominent decision.
In muddy or heavily stained water, the best bet is orange, gold or chartreuse. Natural color choices such as white, pearl, and silver work better in clearer conditions. Day or night, these colors seem to do best given the water conditions. There is no need to overthink it when it comes to catfish as they'll hit any color if they can find it.
Choose Your Gear
You can really use just a standard "bass" setup and be fine although modifying it can be helpful if you so choose. The key is that you are comfortable with whatever you use. Being that the equipment in this game tends to be smaller and "less beefy", you want to know the ins and outs of your setup to the best of your ability because when a monster catfish bites, you don't want to be figuring out how to use your drag or how to steer a large fish out of trouble. Being confident you can drop your lure within an inch of your target will further up your success rates as many fish are tight to structure and usually won't chase.
With that said, believe it or not, my all around setup is the trusty Zebco 33 with a 6'-6" medium heavy rod, and 14lb Stren mono line. Yes, you read that right. I fish for river catfish with a Zebco 33. Why? Because it's what I know and I am 100% confident I can land anything with it. I personally don't like spinning reels and bass baitcasters give me issues. A large baitcaster like an Abu C3 6500 is easy to cast, but couldn't cast a super light lure so I've stuck with my trusty Zebco for years. From paddlefish to pike, catfish to hybrids and literally everything in between, it lands them all. Every fish shown in this article was caught with said reel. Out of thousands of fish, I've only been spooled once by a mystery fish. A cool trick I learned after that incident is if a fish is running hard, hit the butt of the rod hard with your hand. Sometimes it takes a few tries, but the fish always ends up stopping. I've utilized this trick on numerous occasions and it always works. Again, use what's comfortable and confident.
On rod selection, I have found the medium heavy a solid choice as it has a good backbone for hooksets and guiding fish out of structure or areas you don't want them in. When I first started, I used a medium rod and this led to lots of lost fish from all species. I truly believe this may in fact be why rattletraps didn't work well for me because I couldn't get enough power in the hookset. I also didn't have nearly the control in guiding fish using a medium rod. The 40 inch flattie pictured above was caught with a medium rod and while it worked out, a medium heavy certainly would have been beneficial. The 41.5 inch fish below was caught with a medium heavy and I was able to control it through the current with relative ease.
Lastly, line selection is just as important as your rod and reel. I personally like Stren mono as it holds up well against rocks and wood and is flatout strong line. While slightly overkill, I chose 14lb test so I could pull free from more snags, it handles nicks better when rubbing against structure, and it allows me to cinch down on the drag a bit more if I have to. If you are fishing more logjams, braid might be a better option.
Protect The Species
Catching big river catfish is exciting and rewarding, but 2 things are ruining the fun. First, social media. Too many people are blowing up spots on all platforms just to get views. These people disregard the fact that potentially thousands of people are looking at their content and if the background in your photos or videos show distinguishable features or landmarks, the crowds will soon follow. This is why just about every photo in this article is pointed upward or background largely or entirely is taken out. It doesn’t matter if I’m fishing a common spot or hiked and bushwhacked 2 miles down the river to a seemingly unknown location. Protecting your spots is of the utmost importance.
The other topic is pay lakes. Here in the Midwest, paylakes are everywhere. Dropping thousands of pounds of trophy fish in a stagnant pond is not really fishing and it’s not a sport. Most of these fish die within weeks or months of being released because they aren’t fed allowing for a slightly better chance for a bite. Where do these fish come from? Your local lakes, creeks, and rivers and they are being taken, oftentimes illegally, by such large numbers that the water systems can’t replace what was taken and the fisheries quickly dry up. It’s nearly impossible to find a 50+ pound catfish around here and even 40+ are elusive. A 30lber is considered a trophy anymore which is pretty sad.
By not supporting these paylakes, keeping your spots to people you truly trust, and releasing the big ones, you will help cultivate your local waterways and allow them to recover for more enjoyment in the future.
Conclusion
While the majority of catfishermen choose to use conventional baits and techniques, there is another method that is a proven alternative. It is a blast to catch catfish on artificial lures using light tackle and it really offers a challenge. Don't be afraid to go against the grain and attempt something seemingly off the wall as it might just be what you've been missing all along.
As always, B.E. Adventurous!